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    The Brunch Bread Olympics: A Planner’s Guide to Not Running Out of Bagels

    Toast keeps the title. The bagel’s four-hundred-year campaign falls one dozen short.

    The Brunch Bread Olympics: A Planner’s Guide to Not Running Out of Bagels

    A HOTEL BALLROOM — In a result that surprised no one who has ever stood in a buffet line, toast, the reigning champion of the breakfast bread for as long as anyone can remember, narrowly held off a surging bagel on Sunday morning. Officials confirmed that the croissant, which competed under the French flag, is in fact Austrian and will be the subject of an inquiry.

    Toast appears on roughly half of the restaurant breakfast menus in America, and it has held the title through a simple strategy of showing up everywhere, every morning, without complaint. “Toast doesn’t win on talent,” said Gerald Brioche, a banquet captain with thirty-one years on the ballroom floor, in the flat voice of a coach who has seen things. “Toast wins on attendance.”

    The real story of the Games was the bagel, a boiled-then-baked challenger whose first written mention is a 1610 Jewish community regulation in Kraków, where it was listed as a gift for women after childbirth. It spent the next four centuries working its way up to the Sunday morning of a hotel ballroom. Its American breakthrough came when a Connecticut family, the Lenders, started freezing bagels in the 1950s and shipping them to supermarkets in the early 1960s. “The freezer,” said Dr. Mildred Rye, professor of carbohydrate studies, “was the great equalizer.” Its doubles partner, cream cheese, is credited to a New York dairyman who was reportedly trying to copy a French cheese. It is sold under the name Philadelphia despite having no connection to Philadelphia, and it was seen embracing the bagel on the medal stand. The pair have been working together since roughly the 1920s and declined to say whether they would ever see other people.

    THE PLANNER’S REPORT

    For the event organizer, the Games were less a sporting event than a logistics emergency. “We ordered three hundred bagels for three hundred guests,” said Tamsin Crumbley, a planner with eleven years of buffet scars, visibly shaken. “We were out by 9:40. I want to be clear that this was not a math problem. This was a prophecy.”

    The food and beverage guarantee, due Thursday, was reportedly submitted with the confidence of a person who has never met a human being before breakfast. The croissants looked spectacular on the display table and came back to the kitchen largely untouched, a phenomenon Crumbley called “ornamental baking.” The whole wheat toast, ordered as a gesture of dietary good faith, sat in its basket admired by no one. “It’s the one you order for the people who say they’ll have it,” she said. “They will not have it.”

    THE ATHLETES

    • Toast, reigning champion: ubiquitous, dependable, about as glamorous as a lanyard.

    • The Bagel, challenger: dense, chewy, with the longest paper trail in the field. It goes first, and there is never enough.

    • The Croissant, competing under the French flag: historians trace it to August Zang, an Austrian who opened a Viennese bakery in Paris around 1838. The earliest known recipe for the modern croissant is from 1905.

    • The English Muffin, competing under the English flag: invented in New York by Samuel Bath Thomas, a baker from Plymouth who arrived in 1874 and opened his bakery in 1880.

    • Whole Wheat Toast, the virtuous one: beloved in principle, avoided in practice.

    • Cinnamon Raisin Toast, the wildcard: cheered by a loyal minority, booed by the rest of the stadium on principle.

    THE DOPING SCANDAL

    The Games were briefly shaken when officials discovered that a Sunday buffet mimosa was almost entirely orange juice. The Anti-Doping Panel, made up of the attrition clause and one extremely tired banquet captain, ordered the bar to “find the champagne.”

    THE SPECTATORS

    Three delegations attended the opening ceremony. Team Beringer is named for Guy Beringer, who coined “brunch” in an 1895 essay in Hunter’s Weekly. Team Bourdain honors the chef who wrote in 1999 that cooks despise “hollandaise, home fries, those pathetic fruit garnishes” and the rest of the clichéd accompaniments. The Reluctant Attendees go to Sunday brunch every week and complain about it every week.

    THE SEAL

    Citius, Altius, Fluffier.

    THE REAL HISTORY, FOR THOSE KEEPING SCORE: The bagel’s first written appearance is a 1610 Kraków community regulation listing it as a gift for women after childbirth. Lender’s Bagels froze and shipped bagels to supermarkets in the early 1960s. The croissant’s ancestor arrived in Paris with the Austrian August Zang around 1838; the earliest known modern croissant recipe is from 1905. The English muffin is credited to Samuel Bath Thomas, who opened his New York bakery in 1880. “Brunch” was coined by Guy Beringer in an 1895 essay in Hunter’s Weekly. The medals, the mimosa inquiry, and the prophecy are invented.

    The soundtrack: The Brunch Bread Olympics

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